In 1971, when our daughter Chris was barely 1 and we were, well, a lot younger, we joined the crazed herd that stampeded to Orlando for the Magic Kingdom's grand opening. Six years earlier, no Floridian could have imagined such a place. But Walter Elias Disney did. Where others saw little but cow patties and orange groves, where the day's tourism maestros couldn't conceive beyond water-skiing shows and alligator wrestling, Uncle Walt dreamed of "Disneyland East."

In a covert operation that would have made the CIA proud, Disney started buying central Florida real estate under names that gave no clue that Mickey was his backer. By the time the Orlando Sentinel, the local newspaper, caught wind of it, the Wizard of Diz had options on a parcel twice the size of Manhattan.

Sadly, though, Walt Disney never saw his dream come true. He died of lung cancer in 1966, and when he died, so did his vision. Had he lived, Disney probably wouldn't have allowed his World to become what it has: a mega-commercial vacation version of New Year's Eve in Times Square. To the newer generations, including our grandsons, Jake and Andy, that means utopia, and we'd be lying if we didn't admit it touches us when we see the magic in their eyes. We also look at it as an enigma: Someday, it will run out of gas. (Won't it?)

Maybe not entirely, but it sure hit a speed bump in 2001 and 2002. (We'll tell you how much of one later, in "By the Numbers.") Even so, to the millions who made the pilgrimage last year, it remains, as one British journalist called it, a national shrine. It is that -- and a very crowded one most of the time.

Speed bumps aside, Disney's Florida legacy is still growing. As the new millennium takes root, it includes four theme parks, a dozen smaller attractions, two nightclub districts, tens of thousands of hotel rooms, timeshare holdings, scores of eateries, and two cruise ships. Universal Orlando and SeaWorld add four theme parks, and, with the help of smaller fry, the rest of Orlando antes up 80 lesser attractions, an avalanche of restaurants, and enough hotel rooms to boost central Florida's total to more than 110,000.

When does Orlando cry "uncle?"

Well, Disney and Universal may not, but others do. Peripheral motels, restaurants, dinner shows, and attractions are here one week and gone the next. The big blow in 2001 was the closing of Church Street Station, a dining-and-club district that was the prototype for Downtown Disney, Pleasure Island, and Universal's CityWalk. Even in good times, the theme-park players see attendance rise and fall. And those revenue lapses often cause a negative side effect -- price hikes -- for those of us spending our hard-earned dollars in the parks, which are very expensive. All seven major parks charge about $52 per adult and $42 to $43 per child ages 3 to 9 -- per day! And that's only the tip of things. Amusement Business, an industry trade journal, says a typical family of four spends about $250 a day for admission, parking, a fast-food lunch, and two T-shirts. That's without a room and other meals. Still, cost and speed bumps aside, the numbers grow in a stable economy. The reason is simple: This is fantasyland, and there's so much to do in only one location -- enough that a 2-week stay and deep pockets won't allow you the time to hit all of the parks and attractions.

That's why we're here. Over the years, the two of us have explored the parks, dined at Orlando's restaurants, and snooped in area hotels and motels so that we can give you an inside track on America's No. 1 young and young-at-heart landing zone. With this book, you'll have the necessary tools to plan ahead. There's more than enough information to make you a savvy shopper. Our job: to make your vacation easy to arrange and as enjoyable as possible so you'll be able to relax while you're here. At the same time, we're going to give you options to make your vacation affordable. We've noted some of the best deals in this corner of the planet and ways to keep expenses to a minimum while having maximum fun. And Orlando tourism gurus will make sure you have a steady stream of new things to see.

Last year's economic downturn generally means more savings on rooms, meals, and fun things to see and do. And, if you have some energy left after touring the usual daytime venues, there's still a lot of Orlando that most tourists never see -- one far from fairy-tale castles and whale shows -- places where singles and seniors find plenty of R- and PG-rated as well as laid-back entertainment.

Despite the growth in after-hours venues, however, Orlando remains a place primarily for kids. Many hotels, some with whimsical themes, have video arcades and other kid-pleasing features, and just about every restaurant in town has a children's menu.

But no matter what their age, in this city, visitors are the real VIPs. The major players are vying for your business, as they engage in an ongoing high-stakes game of do-unto-others. The innovative Disney-MGM Studios theme park, with its movie-magic motif, was countered a year after it opened by Universal Studios Florida, which brought in Steven Spielberg as a creative consultant. The late, great Church Street Station, a single-admission entertainment complex, was followed closely by Disney's Pleasure Island, Downtown Disney, and CityWalk at Universal. What's Wet 'n Wild in town? In addition to that same-name Universal water park, Disney has two splash zones of its own and provides free transportation to them for its vast numbers of hotel guests. Busch Gardens in nearby Tampa has an animal park. So, voilà! Disney came back with an entire Animal Kingdom.

Make no mistake: In this war, you are the prize, and the stakes, like roller coasters, will continue to rise.

Red-Alert Checklist--From the literally red-alert news desk: Once you arrive, you'll see a lot of folks sporting a boiled-lobster complexion. They ignored the No. 1 survival rule for an Orlando vacation: Use sunscreen! From early spring through late fall, Florida's sun can deliver a dangerous burn, including sun poisoning, if you're not protected with a 25- or higher-rated sunscreen. (We've even seen it happen on winter days.) You can also protect yourself by wearing wide-brimmed hats, airy clothes, and sunglasses. Also, to avoid dehydration, remember to drink plenty of fluids. Don't forget to pack a pair of comfortable walking shoes for those days spent pounding the theme-park pavement. And if you have children in tow, remember that they need protection as much or more than you.

Don't get shut out at dinnertime. You can make same-day or day-before reservations in most Orlando eateries, but there are some exceptions to the rule, including Emeril's and Victoria and Albert's . In fact, any Disney restaurant -- especially those serving character meals -- can have a waiting list a mile long in peak periods. So take our advice and use Walt Disney World's version of a reservation, priority seating (tel. 407/939-3463), which lets you stake a claim to a table 30 or more days in advance.

Many visitors come with their hearts set on (and days planned around) specific attractions, hotels, or restaurants. But some dreams don't come true. Disney has reduced the park hours, limited the days certain shows are staged, and continues to temporarily close some restaurants and attractions to cut expenses in response to the weakened economy. Universal, SeaWorld, and smaller players have taken similar steps. Before you promise your family or yourself anything, make sure your dreams can come true by calling or checking the websites provided throughout this book. Also note that in the best of times, theme park rides break down or have to be shut down for routine maintenance (though you don't get a break on ticket prices when your favorite rides or shows are dark). Some of the websites listed earlier in this chapter, including Deb's Unofficial Walt Disney World Information Guide, have "rehab" schedules and update them almost daily.

If you purchased traveler's checks, have you recorded the check numbers and stored the documentation separately from the checks?

Did you pack your camera and an extra set of camera batteries, and purchase enough film? If you packed film in your checked baggage, did you invest in protective pouches to shield film from airport X-rays? You may be best advised to buy your film in a local discount store, such as Wal-Mart, or a drugstore, such as Walgreens, after you arrive.

Do you have a safe, accessible place to store cash?

Did you bring ID cards, such as AAA and AARP cards, student IDs, and so forth, that could entitle you to discounts?

Speaking of identification, did you bring a photo ID? That's very important since September 11, 2001.

Did you bring emergency drug prescriptions and extra glasses and/or contact lenses?

Do you have your credit-card pin numbers?

If you have an E-ticket, do you have documentation?

Did you leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home?